Analisis hasil pewarnaan benang sutera menggunakan ekstrak gambir dengan mordan CaO

F. Failisnur; S. Sofyan; S. Silfia; M. Marlusi

doi:10.24960/jli.v10i1.6161.15-22

Analisis hasil pewarnaan benang sutera menggunakan ekstrak gambir dengan mordan CaO

F. Failisnur, S. Sofyan, S. Silfia, M. Marlusi

Abstract

Pewarnaan benang dengan pewarna alami untuk kain tenun sudah menjadi trend saat ini. Sutera merupakan serat alam yang sering digunakan untuk kain tenun dan menghasilkan intensitas warna yang baik ketika diwarnai dengan pewarna alami seperti ekstrak gambir. Pewarna alami yang diekstrak ulang dari gambir asalan telah diaplikasikan untuk mewarnai benang sutera. Penelitian bertujuan untuk menganalisis ukuran dan dispersi partikel dari ekstrak gambir serta melihat pengaruhnya terhadap hasil pewarnaan pada temperatur dan waktu pencelupan yang berbeda. Mordan CaO digunakan untuk membangkitkan dan mengunci warna dengan metoda pasca mordanting. Proses pewarnaan dilakukan pada temperatur 30, 50 dan 70 °C dengan waktu pencelupan 5, 15 dan 25 menit. Ekstrak gambir dianalisis dispersi ukuran partikelnya menggunakan particle size analyzer (PSA), sedangkan benang sutera yang telah diwarnai dievaluasi nilai kolorimetri dan ketahanan luntur warnanya. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa perlakuan pada temperatur 70 °C dengan waktu pencelupan 15 menit memberikan intensitas warna optimal dan ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian 40 °C rata-rata bernilai baik sampai sangat baik (4–5), terhadap panas penyeterikaan bernilai baik sampai sangat baik untuk semua perlakuan, sedangkan terhadap paparan sinar matahari bernilai cukup (3).

Keywords

ekstrak gambir; benang sutera; mordanting; intensitas warna; ketahanan luntur warna

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DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.24960/jli.v10i1.6161.15-22